Pole to Pole

Day 98: The Masai Mara

A short while afterwards we come across a stately column of giraffe moving across the landscape in what appears to be slow motion. At the back of the procession is a smaller lame giraffe, walking awkwardly and falling further behind. This time it doesn't look as if anyone is going back to help.

Wendy shakes her head. 'They just carry on, it's the survival of the fittest. That's why it's probably better if some predator comes along . . . they wouldn't be able to kill them standing up like that . . . they'll wait till they lie down.'

Birth, reproduction and death. We've been close to it all today.

Though it doesn't actually rain again, the grey clouds pile up to bring on a premature dusk. Sweaters come out and the camp staff light a fire beside the river for us. I wander round to the kitchen. A big pizza is being loaded into the oven. Patrick is busying around and I probably get in the way, but I can't leave here without talking to someone who's been on safari with Hemingway. Was Hemingway as good as he said he was? Patrick nods.

'He must have learnt to shoot with the American cowboys. Some shoot in the stomach or the leg, but not him. He was good.'

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PALIN'S GUIDES

Series: Pole to Pole
Day: 98
Country/sea: Kenya
Place: Mara River
Book page no: 218

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Day 98: The Masai Mara

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