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Hemingway Adventure

Noventa di Piave

Fossalta di Piave, Italy 
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A farmhouse in the flatlands of the Piave valley at Fossalta.
Michael Palin - Hemingway AdventureWe leave Milan today to try and locate the place where Hemingway was wounded. It’s complicated because though he portrays his own real injury as the fictional injury sustained by Lieutenant Henry in A Farewell to Arms, Hemingway locates the event in a part of the battlefront that he’d never seen - the Isonzo River, now the border between Italy and Slovenia.

This is mountainous, dramatic country, where a milky-green river scours steep, wooded gorges. There was heavy fighting here, but Hemingway never saw any of it. He himself was hit and wounded on the banks of the Piave River in the low, flat farmlands only fifty miles from Venice.

The journey out there from Milan is straight and uncomplicated and pretty boring, both road and railway slicing across the rich plains of Lombardy with the snow-capped Alps away to the north a constant, if not always visible, presence.

Romantic cities like Verona, Padua, Vicenza and Venice are nothing more than names on overhead gantries as the autostrada curves to avoid them. Open country is quickly snuffed out by development. The wide plain is in danger of becoming one long industrial estate.
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  • Series: Hemingway Adventure
  • Chapter: Noventa di Piave
  • Country/sea: Italy
  • Place: Noventa di Piave
  • Book page no: 50

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