Himalaya

Day 110: Takengthanka to Sharma Zampa

My tent flap is heavier when I push it aside this morning. A layer of rime has built up overnight and, as I squeeze out into the world, it brushes across my back, propelling me forwards with a shock.

The sun will take some time to penetrate this steeply enclosed ravine, so breakfast is eaten with gloves, hats and scarves on. Our horse drivers are tucking into mounds of red rice and chillies.

'They can't move without rice and chilli,' says Doje. 'Each man eats a kilo of rice a day.'

I ask him what they eat on special occasions.

'Rice,' he says, predictably. 'Rice with green chilli. Pork slices, dried spinach.'

The horses, meanwhile, nuzzle dried corn from what I've come to call Himalayan nose-bags: plastic footballs sliced in half.

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PALIN'S GUIDES

Series: Himalaya
Chapter: Day 110: Takengthanka to Sharma Zampa
Country/sea: Bhutan
Place: Takengthanka
Book page no: 253

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