Himalaya

Day 47: Lekhani

Nawang eventually recovers enough to translate.

'He said he has the tape measure.'

The galla, together with all his records and the tape he used to measure the chests has gone, along with Adrian and his two fellow-officers. Though there appeared to be no physical threat, there seemed no question of their not going, nor of who they were going with. I walk outside. The sun has set and the distant peaks of the Himalaya, a moment ago blood-red and magnificent, are now cold, grey and remote. I find myself scanning the faces of the villagers. Everything seems very different from this morning. Perhaps they all hate us, stirred to anger by the Maoists, who've portrayed us as friends of a corrupt and oppressive government?

I realize, rather pathetically, how easily I project my own feelings onto others. If I'm happy, they must be happy. Now I'm suspicious, they must be too. Their expressions give nothing back. They get on with their work and I get on with my insecurities.

To complete a rotten end to the day, our cooks serve us goat in batter with tuna sauce.

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PALIN'S GUIDES

Series: Himalaya
Chapter: Day 47: Lekhani
Country/sea: Nepal
Place: Lekhani
Book page no: 108

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Leh - Yangbajing