Himalaya

Day 49: Pokhara to Chomrung

While we're in Pokhara a good opportunity arises to try and glean a little more insight into just what's going on in the country. John Cross, born in London and at various times in his life a soldier, diplomat and author of eleven books, including Whatabouts and Wherabouts in Asia, is an ex-Gurkha and expert in jungle warfare. He lives in a comfortable house in the quieter part of Pokhara with his adopted Nepali family.

We talk beside a small Hindu temple in his garden. It's an esoteric affair, containing a Buddha, a picture of the Blarney Stone, and a figure of St Jerome, the patron saint of languages.

'Cover all our options,' he grins.

John is a wiry, sharp-eyed 78-year-old. He still looks and sounds military, with a clipped delivery, straight back, green shorts and socks pulled up to the knee, but his replies are never predictable. He speaks ten Asian languages.

'I learnt one in seven days. Mind you, I wasn't eating.'

He sees an historical pattern in what's happening here.

'This is my third revolution,' he tells me. 'The first one was in Malaya, the second was in Laos. The first one the government won, one-zero, the second the communists won, one-all, and this is my third. Third time lucky for who?'

He sees it as something that's been bubbling for a long time.

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PALIN'S GUIDES

Series: Himalaya
Chapter: Day 49: Pokhara to Chomrung
Country/sea: Nepal
Place: Pokhara
Book page no: 110

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